Month: Aug 2018

18th August – Alston to Greenhead

20180818 It was very windy
It was a very windy day

Saturday

After an interesting conversation with a Dutchman at breakfast and getting his view on Brexit, “We think you are all crazy”, I left at 9.10.

The official Pennine Way wanders up and down the slopes of South Tyne, the only purpose of which seems to be to visit a Roman Fort at Whitely Castle. As this made no impression on me last time I took an easier option and walked the South Tyne Trail through Slaggyford to Burnside, where the two trails meet. This had the additional advantage of a tea stop at a buffet car at Slaggyford station and the chance to see a steam train.

20180818 Sheltering in an old barn
Sheltering in an old barn

Leaving Burnside the trail climbs up onto Hartleyburn Common along an old Roman road, the Maiden Way. By now the wind was getting up and I was glad of a hat and jacket it was also beginning to spit with rain. The trail descends to Glendue Burn before climbing over a watershed and dropping down to the A689 and Hartley Burn. It then climbs to the wilds of Blenkinsopp Common. Thank heaven for a long dry summer as the bogs were bad enough but could have been a nightmare. Eventually passing the trig point at Wain Rigg I dropped down to the busy A69. Taking my life in my hands, I crossed and wandered down to Greenhead via pastures and the golf course arriving 4.00.

20180818 Heather moorland near Greenhead
Heather moorland near Greenhead

The Greenhead Hotel was open and welcoming. The owners now run the bunkhouse, having taken it over when the YHA wanted to close it. Once again I had an 8 bed room to myself. Dinner at the hotel was substantial and they also offered breakfast for tomorrow.

The forecast for Sunday is rain gradually easing and I am glad that I have a short day.

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17th August – Day off in Alston

20180817 Alston marketplace
Alston marketplace

Friday

After a quiet night and substantial breakfast I went to explore Alston.  This did not take long, but I was able to replenish my food and pick up a paperback in a charity shop.  Returning to the hostel, I was hoping to get a photo of the red squirrel that was playing around at breakfast, but unfortunately it proved elusive.

I spent the morning booking accommodation up to Jedburgh, and sorting out some washing.  I was then able to relax for the rest of the day.

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16th August – Dufton to Alston

20180816 Looking back at Cross Fell
Cross Fell

Thursday

Today was a big day, over 20 miles and 1070m of ascent, to get over Cross Fell, at 893m the highest point on the Pennine Way.  Yesterday walkers had turned back because of the high winds.  Luckily, thanks to Alan and Katy providing up to date weather forecasts, I found that there was a window of opportunity between 10-12 before 40 mph winds and rain arrived.

I left Dufton at 7.10 and almost immediately began the first climb of the day.  I crossed Great Rundale Beck, via a clapper footbridge and came upon a large black bull which took rather too much notice of my progress, but eventually decided he would let me pass unmolested.

20180816 Swindale Beck
Swindale Beck

The way continued up to cross Swindale Beck, before arriving at Green Fell (794m).

20180816 Looking west from Green Fell
Looking west from Green Fell

From here the path crossed a bog, before reaching a flagged path leading to the road to the radar station on Great Dun Fell.  By this time the wind was getting up and storm clouds were racing in from the west.

20180816 Approaching radar station on Great Dun Fell
Approaching the radar station on Great Dun Fell

I had left Dufton following an Australian lady, and we had swapped places throughout the morning, as one or other of us stopped for a rest.  She led over Great Dun Fell (848m), and having crossed a col, stopped at the shelter on Little Dun Fell.

20180816 Little Dun Fell with Cross Fell on skyline
Little Dun Fell with Cross Fell on the skyline behind it

By now it was raining so we donned our waterproof trousers and decided that it would be sensible to keep one another in sight until we reached the track, leading to Greg’s Hut bothy, on the other side of Cross Fell.

Heading up into the mist we reached the intermediate cairn and followed a bearing to find the summit cairn.  Another quick bearing led us safely out of the murk and the crossing was complete.  In truth it had been quite easy.  I have to confess that this is the first time I have climbed Cross Fell.  10 years ago I could not find the summit, in much worse conditions, and must have traversed round until I picked up the path down.

 

20180816 Moors beyond Greg's Hut Bothy
The moors beyond Greg’s Hut bothy

I stopped for a while at the bothy and then walked down the track to Carrigill. The track was being remade, to allow vehicles to access the moor for shooting, and the walk out was long and tiring.  At Carrigill my colleague and I were looking forward to some tea, so it was a disappointment that the pub was closed.

A quick look at the map enabled us to follow a parallel track and we arrived at Alston at 4.45.

20180816 Dufton
Alston

Once again I was the only person in a dormitory for eight.  After a shower and sorting out all of the wet kit, I went to the Cumberland Hotel which provided a substantial meal.  Then I had an early night.

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15th August – Langdon Beck to Dufton

20180815 Langdon Beck Youth Hostel
Langdon Beck Youth Hostel

Wednesday

My roommates were not early risers. and some were still in bed when I left at 8.15 so packing was done in the dark. Luckily I remembered that I had forgotten my Kindle when I was only 500m from the hostel.

The route goes up the Tees Valley past the cliffs at Falcon Clints.  There are a couple of places where you have to cross large awkward boulders, which proved a pain with a large rucksack.

20180815 Cauldron Snout
Cauldron Snout

Eventually Caldron Snout came into view.  This is the outfall from Cow Green Reservoir and is very scenic.  You have to scramble up the rocks at the side of the falls, and a combination of wet greasy rock, heavy rain and a heavier bag made the trip rather more exciting than I needed.

20180815 Rain and mist near High Cup Nick
Coming out of the rain and mist near High Cup Nick

From Cow Green you head off into the moors on a good track to Rasp Hill.  Turning left I descended to Maize Beck which is followed to High Cup Nick.  This should be the highlight of the day but yet again it was pouring with rain and very misty so there were no views.  Keeping High Cup Nick on my left I eventually found the path and a straightforward descent took me to Dufton for 2.30.  The hostel did not open until 5.00pm but the kind people at the Stag Inn let me get changed.  In exchange I bought beer and passed a mellow afternoon.

Dufton Hostel was very comfortable, and I met an interesting character who claimed to have been everywhere and seen everything.  Amazingly all the people in the dormitory were in bed by 9.30 so it was early to bed.

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14th August – Baldersdale to Langdon Beck

20180814 Grassholme reservoir
Grassholme Reservoir

Tuesday

Alan dropped me back in Baldersdale around 9.15.  The route goes down to Blackton Reservoir before climbing up past Hannah’s Meadow, species-rich hay meadows, named after Hannah Hauxwell who lived nearby at Low Birk Hart.   As they had recently been cut there was little to see.  The climb over Hazelgarth Rigg was followed by the descent to Grassholme Reservoir and yet another ascent to Harter Fell before going down into the Tees valley at Middleton-in-Teesdale.

20180814 Middleton-in-Teesdale
Middleton-in-Teesdale

Tea was called for and provided by a very nice tea shop just over the bridge.

20180814 Low Force on the River Tees
Low Force on the River Tees

During the 8 miles walk to Langdon Beck the trail follows the course of the Tees. The highlights are Low and High Force.  Some kayakers had just run Low Force when I got there.

20180814 High Force on the River Tees
High Force on the River Tees

High Force is England’s most powerful waterfall and it must be spectacular when the river is in spate.

Langdon Beck Hostel was very comfortable and provided an excellent evening meal and a good breakfast. The worrying thing was that it was very quiet with few walkers.

I probably should mention that there were showers off and on during the day but overall the weather was reasonable.

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Neil has no connectivity!

This is Katy blogging for Neil as he is in the wilds of the north Pennines and connectivity is very poor.  Everything’s fine, he’s bang on schedule tonight and hopes to be able to catch up with the daily reports tomorrow when he reaches Alston.  I had to text him screenshots of weather reports for Cross Fell this evening – obviously the major peak in tomorrow’s walking.

 

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13th August – Keld to Baldersdale

20180813 Waterfall near Keld
Waterfall near Keld

Monday

Leaving Keld at 8.55 I was delighted that the sun was shining and the overnight rain had not materialised.  However, within 30 minutes I was putting on my rain jacket and over-trousers, which stayed on for the rest of the day.  I can only say that the weather has certainly changed for the worst, and at times the rain seemed to be falling in biblical proportions.

Two hours after leaving Keld I reached Tan Hill Inn.  Like the Windmill they never close, so I was able to get a mug of tea, and a very kind gentleman gave me a £5 donation for Sobell House.

20180813 Tan Hill Inn 1732 ft
Tan Hill Inn – the highest pub in England (530m) – they have their own Snowcat and snowplough!

Leaving the pub you enter Sleightholme Moor, best described as bleak and boggy.   Unfortunately this goes on for around 8 km.  I am sure it would have enjoyed it more without the driving rain.  Eventually Sleightholme Farm came into view and the path goes through a delightful limestone valley before reaching Trough Head.

20180813 Gods Bridge
God’s Bridge

Turning north the path descends to God’s Bridge, a natural limestone slab bridge, before climbing to cross the A66.  From here to Baldersdale it was a hard slog.  My rucksack was uncomfortable, the path was straight and boring and in danger of being washed away, as was I.  The only interest was listening to the guns blasting away at the grouse on the hillside opposite.  Eventually, just before 4.00 the best thing I had seen all day hove into sight: Alan’s car.

I barely had a stitch of dry clothes on me so did a rapid change at the car. Sometimes the small pleasures are best: just to be in dry clothes and out of the rain.

Returning to Middridge I was able to get some washing done but, as Alan does not have a dryer, I will have to use my Scotland kit until Jedburgh.  The Bay Horse next door provided a fine dinner and it was good to catch up with Alan.

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12th August – Hawes to Keld

20180812 Summit of Great Shunner Fell
The Summit of Great Shunner Fell – 718m, the highest point on the trip so far

 

Sunday

After a quiet night, as there was no one else in the dormitory, I left Hawes at 8.45.  It took over 2 hours 30 minutes to climb up to the summit of Great Shunner Fell.  For over 2 hours the views were magnificent, if you like the inside of a cloud.  The weather had taken a turn for the worse, but luckily it improved after the summit.

Great Shunner Fell used to be notorious for its peat-bogs, but these now have large slab walkways.  When these were introduced they caused some controversy with traditionalists.  Personally I think they are wonderful as I have never found any pleasure in tracking through peat-bogs, a much overrated pastime.

20180812 Thwaite Village
Thwaite Village

From Great Shunner Fell the path descends to Thwaite, where I stopped for a pot of tea.  Leaving Thwaite, I climbed up to Kisdon with fine views of Swaledale.

20180812 Swaledale from Kidson Fell
Swaledale from Kisdon Fell

Traversing towards Keld I was swarmed by horse-flies which was very unpleasant. Do they serve any useful purpose?

20180812 Keld Village
Keld

 

Coming down to Keld it was time for more tea before arriving at East View, my B&B. Doris, who came from the Philippines, gave me more tea and cake and could not have been more welcoming.  I dried off and visited Keld Lodge for a beer before a delicious dinner back at East View, which is highly recommended.

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11th August – Horton in Ribblesdale to Hawes

20180811 Bridge at Ling Gill
The Bridge at Ling Gill

Saturday

The main news is that I am in Hawes and my leg seems fine, which is obviously a great relief.

The day started early as for once my room-mates were keen to get up and get going.  I left the hostel at 7.15 in bright sunshine making my way up onto Birkwith Moor before dropping down to Old Ing Farm and the National Nature Reserve at Ling Gill. This is a small rocky gorge with rare plants. On the bridge at Ling Gill there is a sign starting that it was repaired in 1765.

20180811 Pen-y-Ghent from Cam High Road
Pen-y-Ghent from Cam High Road

From Ling Gill the path joins Cam High Road, an old Roman road and packhorse way.  This has good views over the famous Ribblehead Viaduct and Ingleborough.

20180811 Ribblehead Viaduct and Ingleborough
Ribblehead Viaduct and Ingleborough

At Kidhow you leave the road and contour around Dodd Fell at 580m with glorious views down into the adjacent valley.

20180811 Looking north from Dodd Fell
Looking north from Dodd Fell

Near Ten End the path left the track and I could descend steeply down to Hawes.  I was a bit surprised to find that it was only 1.15.  Luckily there was a tea-shop and I was able to get a snack and had an enjoyable chat with Jonathan, a walker I had met on the trail.

20180811 Descending towards Hawes from Ten End
Descending towards Hawes from Ten End

The hostel is Hawes is very quiet and at the moment I have a 6-bed room to myself. All the other people staying are around my age and all want twin rooms.

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10th August – Moving Again

20180810 Horton-in-R with Ingleborough
Horton-in-Ribblesdale with Ingleborough on the skyline

Friday

After another 7 days of rest with new antibiotics my leg seems to have improved. Yesterday I went onto the downs and walked for 3 hours with no adverse effects so I decided to resume my trip.

I have come to Horton in Ribblesdale for a number of reasons.

  1. I could get there by train.
  2. I could restart with 4 fairly short days.
  3. The Craven Arms to Horton section is the lowest part that is left, and the weather there in October is likely to be better than in Scotland.
  4. If it all goes pear-shaped I can get my brother, Alan, to collect me.
  5. I have a few more days in hand before I have to be in Fort William so can shorten some days if necessary.

The train journey was uneventful and all the trains kept to time.  I arrived at the 3 Peaks bunkhouse at 5.00 to find it almost completely empty.  I have also managed to get into hostels for the next few days.

The big test will be tomorrow when I walk to Hawes.  If that goes well I should be back on track.

I am apprehensive about tomorrow as the future of the whole trip really hinges on what happens.  It is very frustrating that I have been forced to leave a section out, but I am happy with the decision that I have made.

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