20th August – The Sill to Bellingham

20180820 Hadrian's Wall and Peel Crags
Hadrian’s Wall and Peel Crags

Monday

The morning did not start well when the Fire Alarm went off at 5.00am. After a few minutes, when all the hostellers were in the corridors in various states of undress, it was declared a false alarm.

20180820 Milecastle 39 and Crag Lough
Milecastle 39 and Crag Lough

Returning to bed but not really sleeping I left at 8.10.  Today’s walk really broke down into 3 sections, the Wall, the Forest and finally moors and farmland.  For once it was not raining, and it was enjoyable just to get by with a T shirt.  The Hadrian’s Wall section was dramatic with fine cliffs at Steel Rigg and Hotbank Crags.  There were plenty of ups and downs with lots of steps before I left the wall at Rapishaw Gap.

20180820 Broomlea Lough and Hadrian's Wall
Broomlee Lough

Turning north from the wall the path crosses an area of moorland before entering forest.  One section of forest leads to moorland at Hawk Side before more forest is encountered and eventually you reach a small road near Ladyhill.

20180820 Boggy path through the forest
Boggy path through the forest

From here the path descends into a deep valley to cross Warks Burn and then rises steeply to the farm at Horneystead.  Someone should nominate the owners for a medal.  They offer shelter, toilets, refreshments, which included tea or coffee, soft drinks, beer, Waggon Wheels, crisps, sweets etc.  All were offered free, donations were appreciated, but not mandatory.  I stopped for tea and a late lunch.

20180820 The Mast at Ealingham Rigg
The mast at Ealingham Rigg

Much refreshed, I crossed more farmland before descending to cross Houxty Burn, immediately followed by a climb up past Shitlington Crags, to the tall mast at Ealingham Rigg.  From there it was a short walk down rough pasture to Bellingham.

20180820 Coming down to Bellingham
Heading down to Bellingham

This is yet another ex-YHA hostel, now operated by a local farmer.  I arrived around 4.20 just as the rain set in.  A trip to the local Co-op sorted out supplies, and I am self-catering to avoid having to go out in the rain.

There does not seem to be a fire alarm, so I am hoping for a better night.

19th August – Greenhead to The Sill at Once Brewed

20180819 Hadrian's Wall shrouded in mist
Hadrian’s Wall, shrouded in mist

Sunday

The torrential rain during the night gave way to a light drizzle by morning. Knowing that the weather was due to improve I arranged breakfast for 8.30 and it was 9.50 before I left Greenhead.

20180819 Hadrian's Wall near Walltown
The Wall near Walltown

Kitted our in full rain gear I set off for one of the highlights of the trip, Hadrian’s Wall. The trail passes Thirlwall Castle leading on to an old whinstone quarry and rising to the wall. Unfortunately for most of the rest of the day the views, which are extensive, were obscured by thick mist and rain. It is also disappointing that most of the information boards are indecipherable and need replacing.

20180819 Milecastle 42 near Cawfields
Milecastle 42 near Cawfields

With little incentive to dawdle I passed Turret 45A and Milestone 45.  Large forts were built at intervals, with mile-castles each mile.  A Roman mile is 1481m.  The wall follows the crest of Whin Sill and is a bit of a roller coaster with steep ups and downs.  Passing Cockmount Hill, Great Chesters, Cawfields, Shield in the Walk, I reached the viewpoint on Winshields Crag in driving rain and mist.  I therefore missed seeing Scotland for the first time on the trip.

20180819 View north from Winshields Crag
The view north from Winshields Crag

Shortly after leaving the high point of the wall I reached a minor road at Peel and could descend to the new YHA hostel called the Sill. I arrived at 2.30 and persuaded the warden to open the drying room before booking in time at 3.00.

20180819 The Sill Hostel
The Sill Hostel

As I write this at 5.30 the rain has stopped. Tomorrow I head for Bellingham and a last chance to stock up before two days crossing remote moorland and the Cheviots.