Tag: Northumbria

22nd August – Byrness to Jedburgh

20180821 Blakehopeburnhaugh with the Cheviots on the horizon
Blakehopeburnhaugh with the Cheviots in the background

Wednesday

This was a big day in more ways than one.  It was 31k with 830m of ascent as well as the day that I left the Pennine Way and entered Scotland.

After a bowl of porridge, to celebrate my imminent arrival in Scotland, I left Byrness at 7.10.  It was raining with low cloud but likely to improve during the afternoon.  The initial climb up to Byrness Hill (414m) was steep and slippery.  Once there the walking improved as the weather deteriorated.  Short steep ascents up Houx Hill and Windy Crag were accompanied by strong winds blowing 20-30mph.

20180822 Ravens Knowe Summit 527m appearing in the mist
Poor visibility approaching Ravens Knowe summit

A flagstone path led on across a bog and the path then rose to Ravens Knowe, the high point of the day at 527m.  By now the mist was quite thick and the summit cairn eventually emerged from the gloom.

20180822 The Scottish Border
The Scottish Border

I continued over Ogre Hill and Croquet Head where I crossed into Scotland, only to move back to England almost immediately.  Climbing above Roman Camps I reached Black Halls.

20180822 Leaving the Pennine Way for Dere Street
Leaving the Pennine Way for Dere Street

At this point I left the Pennine Way and England behind to follow Dere Street, an old Roman road down to Jedburgh.  In improving weather the first part of the way was fairly easy as it follows the boundary fence.  The weather then took a turn for the worse just at the point where you leave the fence and strike out across a hillside.  Naturally at this point the track disappeared so it was out with the GPS to find a saddle between Woden Law and Langside Law.  Once there the weather finally began to improve and the track was obvious once again.

20180822 Descending from the Cheviots towards Jedburgh

Coming off of the Cheviots, Dere Street crosses farm and moorland before a road section.  All was going well up to this point.  At a T junction Dere Street goes straight ahead and is a green lane.  Unfortunately this is popular with off-road vehicles.  The result is a muddy quagmire where they have rutted and destroyed the trail.  Trying to pick a route through was difficult with the real possibility of a fall.  In the end I abandoned Dere Street, and used a lane to reach Jedburgh at 5.10 after 10 hours on the trail.

The Royal Hotel is very comfortable and they agreed to do my washing.  After a quick shower and dinner I had an early night as it had been a long and tiring day.

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21st August – Bellingham to Byrness

20180820 North Tyne river at Bellingham
North Tyne River at Bellingham

Tuesday

The guidebook describes this as ” A bleak and remote day passing few habitations,” and so it would prove to be.

20180821 The moor near Hareshaw House
The moorland near Hareshaw House

I left Bellingham at 8.20 in reasonable weather and immediately climbed up onto moorland at Blakelaw.  The moorland section was quite pleasant as the path rose and fell over Deer Play, Whitley Pike and Pardon Hill.

20180821 The top of the nightmare ascent near Brownrigg Head
The top of the nightmare ascent near Brownrigg Head

Coming down off of Pardon Hill it started to rain as I neared the forest at Brownrigg Head.  Here the path climbs uphill beside a fence.  To quote the guidebook “The climb is steep and muddy at times and may rank as one of the worst sections of the Pennine Way.”  I can only say that I fully concur. It was a nightmare of mud, greasy rock and a steep slope, to which was added a very narrow gap between the wall and the trees, many of which overhung the trail.  At one point I was on my hands and knees to get under a branch.  Eventually I reached the top and took a well earned rest.  The trail led onwards along the edge of the forest through more bog and felled trees and it was a relief to reach the main forest track.

20180821 The long track through Redesdale Forest
The long track through Redesdale Forest

The remainder of the day was a yomp down the forest track to Byrness where I arrived at 3.30.  The Forest Inn provided tea and an evening meal.  The landlord organises the Spine Race each year.  This takes place in January and ultra marathon runners compete in racing the 265 miles of the Pennine Way, which they must complete in less than a week.

Once again I had a room in the bunkhouse on my own.

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20th August – The Sill to Bellingham

20180820 Hadrian's Wall and Peel Crags
Hadrian’s Wall and Peel Crags

Monday

The morning did not start well when the Fire Alarm went off at 5.00am. After a few minutes, when all the hostellers were in the corridors in various states of undress, it was declared a false alarm.

20180820 Milecastle 39 and Crag Lough
Milecastle 39 and Crag Lough

Returning to bed but not really sleeping I left at 8.10.  Today’s walk really broke down into 3 sections, the Wall, the Forest and finally moors and farmland.  For once it was not raining, and it was enjoyable just to get by with a T shirt.  The Hadrian’s Wall section was dramatic with fine cliffs at Steel Rigg and Hotbank Crags.  There were plenty of ups and downs with lots of steps before I left the wall at Rapishaw Gap.

20180820 Broomlea Lough and Hadrian's Wall
Broomlee Lough

Turning north from the wall the path crosses an area of moorland before entering forest.  One section of forest leads to moorland at Hawk Side before more forest is encountered and eventually you reach a small road near Ladyhill.

20180820 Boggy path through the forest
Boggy path through the forest

From here the path descends into a deep valley to cross Warks Burn and then rises steeply to the farm at Horneystead.  Someone should nominate the owners for a medal.  They offer shelter, toilets, refreshments, which included tea or coffee, soft drinks, beer, Waggon Wheels, crisps, sweets etc.  All were offered free, donations were appreciated, but not mandatory.  I stopped for tea and a late lunch.

20180820 The Mast at Ealingham Rigg
The mast at Ealingham Rigg

Much refreshed, I crossed more farmland before descending to cross Houxty Burn, immediately followed by a climb up past Shitlington Crags, to the tall mast at Ealingham Rigg.  From there it was a short walk down rough pasture to Bellingham.

20180820 Coming down to Bellingham
Heading down to Bellingham

This is yet another ex-YHA hostel, now operated by a local farmer.  I arrived around 4.20 just as the rain set in.  A trip to the local Co-op sorted out supplies, and I am self-catering to avoid having to go out in the rain.

There does not seem to be a fire alarm, so I am hoping for a better night.

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19th August – Greenhead to The Sill at Once Brewed

20180819 Hadrian's Wall shrouded in mist
Hadrian’s Wall, shrouded in mist

Sunday

The torrential rain during the night gave way to a light drizzle by morning. Knowing that the weather was due to improve I arranged breakfast for 8.30 and it was 9.50 before I left Greenhead.

20180819 Hadrian's Wall near Walltown
The Wall near Walltown

Kitted our in full rain gear I set off for one of the highlights of the trip, Hadrian’s Wall. The trail passes Thirlwall Castle leading on to an old whinstone quarry and rising to the wall. Unfortunately for most of the rest of the day the views, which are extensive, were obscured by thick mist and rain. It is also disappointing that most of the information boards are indecipherable and need replacing.

20180819 Milecastle 42 near Cawfields
Milecastle 42 near Cawfields

With little incentive to dawdle I passed Turret 45A and Milestone 45.  Large forts were built at intervals, with mile-castles each mile.  A Roman mile is 1481m.  The wall follows the crest of Whin Sill and is a bit of a roller coaster with steep ups and downs.  Passing Cockmount Hill, Great Chesters, Cawfields, Shield in the Walk, I reached the viewpoint on Winshields Crag in driving rain and mist.  I therefore missed seeing Scotland for the first time on the trip.

20180819 View north from Winshields Crag
The view north from Winshields Crag

Shortly after leaving the high point of the wall I reached a minor road at Peel and could descend to the new YHA hostel called the Sill. I arrived at 2.30 and persuaded the warden to open the drying room before booking in time at 3.00.

20180819 The Sill Hostel
The Sill Hostel

As I write this at 5.30 the rain has stopped. Tomorrow I head for Bellingham and a last chance to stock up before two days crossing remote moorland and the Cheviots.

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