12th April – Malham to Horton in Ribblesdale

After a peaceful night at the Youth Hostel, aptly named as our combined ages are only 138, we had an early breakfast, collected our lunches, and left at 8.30.

20190412 Wyn at the top of the climb — The climb up Malham Cove

The weather was fine but very cold and with some of Yorkshire’s finest scenery before us we set off with a spring in our step. This enthusiasm soon waned when we started up the 400 steps to reach the top of Malham Cove. On December 6th 2015 after Storm Desmond a waterfall appeared for the first time in living memory. At 70m or 230 ft that must have been quite a sight.

Avoiding the limestone pavement above the Cove, by using a higher route, we dropped into the valley which led the way to Malham Tarn.

Walking on the level made a pleasant change and although we did not see a roe deer buck in the woods, as we did in 2008, there were some very fine carvings and sculptures.

20190412 Woodcarving at Malham Tarn — Wood carving at Malham Tarn

Leaving the Tarn the track to Tennant Gill was a delight: short, soft grass and easy walking. From the farm at Tennant Gill the work of the day started, 3k of continuous ascent to the cairns on Fountains Fell.

20190412 Above Tenant Gill farm — The climb above Tennant Gill Farm

By now we had lost the sun and the wind made it very cold. Our lunch stop in a sheltered depression was necessarily brief.

20190412 Enjoying lunch — “Enjoying” lunch

Once at the cairns it was possible to look north across the intervening valley to the imposing bulk of Pen-y-Ghent with Ingleborough visible on the horizon.

20190412 Pen-y-Ghent with Ingleborough behind — Pen-y-Ghent (right) and Ingleborough (left)

The descent of Fountains Fell is rough, long and steep and we were wary of aggravating Wyn’s knee. Having reached the road at Dale Head around 3.00pm a decision had to be taken. Taking into account the time and the fact that we were going quite slowly, the nature of the ground and Wyn’s knee we resolved to miss out Pen-y-Ghent.

20190412 Path up Pen-y-Ghent — Contemplating the route up Pen-y-Ghent

By taking an alternative path via Brackenbottom, which still involved a knee jarring descent, we reached Horton in Ribblesdale at 5.30.

20190412 Wyn and Pen-y-Ghent — The alternative route

Wyn and I had a small celebration as I have now linked up with where I recommenced last summer. I have therefore walked from the Lizard in Cornwall to West Linton in Scotland.

20190412 Neil back in Horton in Ribblesdale — Back in Horton in Ribblesdale and the end of the English section of the journey!

Wyn returns home tomorrow and will rejoin me at Fort William for the Great Glen Way. Thanks are due to Wyn for his grit, enthusiasm and, as always, his good company.

Tomorrow I am being picked up by my brother Alan who will take me up to West Linton on Monday. I will restart the walk and the blog on Tuesday.

On Apr 13, 2019Apr 15, 2019 By neilin51Leave a comment

11th April – Gargrave to Malham

20190411 Beside the River Aire — Beside the River Aire

Today has been a semi-rest day. We only had a half day walk across easy rolling hills and along the River Aire.

Wanting to get away and not wait until 8.30 to get cooked breakfast, we made do with continental, and left the Mason’s Arms (recommended) at 8.30.

20190411 Wyn on Eshton Moor near Gargrave — Wyn on Eshton Moor

Easy road walking, past Gargrave House and Home Farm, led to field walking over Eshton Moor and then a gentle descent to the Aire.

20190411 A typical Yorkshire step stile — A typical Yorkshire step stile

Turning upstream we followed the river all the way to Malham.

20190411 Riverside Mill at Aireton, now apartments — Airton Mill, now apartments

The old mill at Airton, now converted into apartments, was a very fine building. Further up the river, we left it briefly for a steep but short climb past Hanlith Hall.

20190411 Hanlith Hall, a des res in the country — Hanlith Hall, a very desirable country cottage

Turning back towards the river we dropped down to the viewpoint at Aire Head with Malham, Malham Cove and Goredale Scar in view to the north.

20190411 The descent to Malham — Neil on the route to Malham

We arrived at Malham at 12.15 for tea and lunch. As I write this we are sitting in the sunshine rehydrating at the Lister Arms before going up to the Youth Hostel.

20190411 Malham village and Cove — Malham village with the Cove behind

On Apr 11, 2019Apr 14, 2019 By neilin51Leave a comment

10th April – Ickornshaw to Gargrave

Wyn and I woke feeling refreshed, and after a cooked breakfast left Winterhouse Barn at 8.30. Tony and Olwyn could not have been better hosts.

The day was easier than the previous days being both shorter (18k) and with less ascent (520m).

We started by walking up to Gill before passing over Cowling Hill and descending into the picturesque village of Lothersdale. The pub provided seats for a short break, but was being renovated.

Leaving Lothersdale we walked on past Hewitts Farm before the big climb of the day to Pinhaw Beacon. The paths were not as rough and rocky as previously and we made good progress. We met some friendly walkers on the summit and were reassured that they were even older than we were.

Pinhaw Beacon marked the end of the South Pennines and the Yorkshire Dales could be seen before us. We descended from the Beacon towards Thornton-in-Craven, and after a little more gentle ascent arrived at the Leeds and Liverpool Canal. Walking on the towpath for a while made a pleasant interlude.

20190410 Church at East Marton — East Marton church

We passed East Marton Church near the site of the curiously named Fish Ponds Hall. Next came the famous double arched bridge which carries the A59 over the canal.

20190410 Double-arch bridge at East Marton — Double-arch canal bridge at East Marton

Finally the much awaited Bridge 162 appeared and the Abbot’s Restaurant and Teashop. As it would have been impolite to deprive them of our custom we felt obliged to stop for cream teas. I also needed to instruct Wyn in the correct (Cornish) way to apply the jam and cream.

20190410 Afternoon tea at the Abbots Restaurant East Marton — Everything stops for tea…

Much refreshed we left the canal and set off up a road with “garlic-scented ramsons” in the woods. Leaving the road went across rolling drumlin hills and ascended Scaleber Hill to see Gargrave in the valley below. We arrived at the Mason’s Arms at 5.10 after a much better day.

One of the pleasures of the past few days has been listening to the curlews and lapwings. For the ornithologists: we saw a red kite, near Walshaw Dean Reservoir, being bombed by lapwings. Apparently they are rare up here despite being so common in Oxfordshire.

After a fine dinner and the opportunity to rehydrate, we could look forward to an easier day on Thursday.

On Apr 11, 2019Apr 12, 2019 By neilin51Leave a comment

9th April – Heptonstall to Ickornshaw

20190409 Cross Inn Heptonstall — The Cross Inn, Heptonstall

Unfortunately Wyn had twisted his knee yesterday so we set out knowing that we had a long and difficult day ahead of us.

20190409 May's Alladdin's Cave — May’s Aladdin’s Cave

We left the Cross Inn (recommended) at 7.50 with no lunch. Fortunately May’s Aladdin’s Cave at High Gate opens at 7.00 so we could load up with food.

20190409 Wyn crossing Heptonstall Moor — Wyn crossing Heptonstall Moor

Suitably weighed down we crossed Heptonstall Moor and dropped down to Gorple Lower Reservoir, quickly followed by the Walshaw Reservoirs. Well – maybe not quickly – but we got past them.

20190409 Walshaw Dean Middle Reservoir — Neil at Walshaw Dean Middle Reservoir

Then came a long slog over Withins Height End to drop down to Top Withins, which is supposedly associated with Emily Bronte’s Wuthering Heights. We stopped briefly for lunch.

20190409 Top Withins - Wuthering Heights — Top Withins – Wuthering Heights?

Returning to the fray, we descended to Ponden Reservoir and began the interminable climb over Ickornshaw Moor.

20190409 Canoe rescues in Ponden Reservoir — Canoe rescues on Ponden Reservoir

By now Wyn was finding the rough trail very tough in both ascent and descent. Steep slopes were encountered at Further Dean Hole and Eller Hill before finally we could drop down to Ickornshaw arriving at 6.50.

20190409 Steep climb above Ponden Reservoir — Yet another steep climb…

Winterhouse Barn B&B was a very welcome sight and I had volunteered to go on to Cowling and get fish and chips for dinner. Disaster: the shop closed at 7.00! Our wonderful hosts immediately volunteered to take us to a local pub and collect us when we were ready. By 7.30 we were in the pub rehydrating on the local ales and trying the local delicacies.

Once back at Winterhouse Barn, we basically collapsed after a very long day. Wyn had been a trooper all day, never complaining but just keeping on going. A gutsy performance.

On Apr 10, 2019Apr 12, 2019 By neilin51Leave a comment

7th April – Flouch to Marsden

20190407 Winscar Reservoir with misty moors behind — Winscar Reservoir with misty moors behind

I woke to find the mist and clag clamped down over the moors. I managed to negotiate a slightly earlier breakfast and left the pub at 8.50.

Initially heading back east on the A628, I then crossed Thurlstone Moor to join the Trans-Pennine Trail to Dunford Bridge. Passing Winscar Reservoir I climbed over the ridge on the Kirklees Trail, before dropping down to Brownhill Reservoir, just about able to see Holmfirth in the distance.

20190407 Holmfirth in the mist — Holmfirth in the mist

Passing the village of Holme, I climbed up and around Hey Clough and descended to Marsden Clough before climbing again to Wessenden Head.

20190407 Descending to Marsden Clough — Descending to Marsden Clough

At this point I joined the Pennine Way for the first time going down past the Upper Wessenden Reservoir before leaving the Way and taking the higher Deer Hill Conduit Path. This gave easy walking and superb views over Butterley Reservoir all the way to Marsden. I reached the town at 4.10.

20190407 Butterley Reservoir from the Deer Cut Conduit Path — Butterley Reservoir from the Deer Hill Conduit Path

I had organised to meet Wyn at Huddersfield Station and for once all the plans worked out. I arrived from Marsden only 15 minutes before Wyn. We took a taxi to our accommodation and have enjoyed a good dinner and conversation.

20190407 Harold Wilson's statue at Huddersfield Station — Harold Wilson’s statue outside Huddersfield Station

Today was a bit of a nothing day. The scenery was nothing to write home about, and was mostly obscured by low cloud. After the highlights of the last two days it was uninspiring. Tomorrow we head for Hebden Bridge, and then have the Pennine Way to look forward to.

On Apr 7, 2019Apr 10, 2019 By neilin51Leave a comment

22nd August – Byrness to Jedburgh

20180821 Blakehopeburnhaugh with the Cheviots on the horizon — Blakehopeburnhaugh with the Cheviots in the background

Wednesday

This was a big day in more ways than one. It was 31k with 830m of ascent as well as the day that I left the Pennine Way and entered Scotland.

After a bowl of porridge, to celebrate my imminent arrival in Scotland, I left Byrness at 7.10. It was raining with low cloud but likely to improve during the afternoon. The initial climb up to Byrness Hill (414m) was steep and slippery. Once there the walking improved as the weather deteriorated. Short steep ascents up Houx Hill and Windy Crag were accompanied by strong winds blowing 20-30mph.

20180822 Ravens Knowe Summit 527m appearing in the mist — Poor visibility approaching Ravens Knowe summit

A flagstone path led on across a bog and the path then rose to Ravens Knowe, the high point of the day at 527m. By now the mist was quite thick and the summit cairn eventually emerged from the gloom.

20180822 The Scottish Border — The Scottish Border

I continued over Ogre Hill and Croquet Head where I crossed into Scotland, only to move back to England almost immediately. Climbing above Roman Camps I reached Black Halls.

20180822 Leaving the Pennine Way for Dere Street — Leaving the Pennine Way for Dere Street

At this point I left the Pennine Way and England behind to follow Dere Street, an old Roman road down to Jedburgh. In improving weather the first part of the way was fairly easy as it follows the boundary fence. The weather then took a turn for the worse just at the point where you leave the fence and strike out across a hillside. Naturally at this point the track disappeared so it was out with the GPS to find a saddle between Woden Law and Langside Law. Once there the weather finally began to improve and the track was obvious once again.

20180822 Descending from the Cheviots towards Jedburgh

Coming off of the Cheviots, Dere Street crosses farm and moorland before a road section. All was going well up to this point. At a T junction Dere Street goes straight ahead and is a green lane. Unfortunately this is popular with off-road vehicles. The result is a muddy quagmire where they have rutted and destroyed the trail. Trying to pick a route through was difficult with the real possibility of a fall. In the end I abandoned Dere Street, and used a lane to reach Jedburgh at 5.10 after 10 hours on the trail.

The Royal Hotel is very comfortable and they agreed to do my washing. After a quick shower and dinner I had an early night as it had been a long and tiring day.

On Aug 23, 2018Sep 8, 2018 By neilin512 Comments

21st August – Bellingham to Byrness

20180820 North Tyne river at Bellingham — North Tyne River at Bellingham

Tuesday

The guidebook describes this as ” A bleak and remote day passing few habitations,” and so it would prove to be.

20180821 The moor near Hareshaw House — The moorland near Hareshaw House

I left Bellingham at 8.20 in reasonable weather and immediately climbed up onto moorland at Blakelaw. The moorland section was quite pleasant as the path rose and fell over Deer Play, Whitley Pike and Pardon Hill.

20180821 The top of the nightmare ascent near Brownrigg Head — The top of the nightmare ascent near Brownrigg Head

Coming down off of Pardon Hill it started to rain as I neared the forest at Brownrigg Head. Here the path climbs uphill beside a fence. To quote the guidebook “The climb is steep and muddy at times and may rank as one of the worst sections of the Pennine Way.” I can only say that I fully concur. It was a nightmare of mud, greasy rock and a steep slope, to which was added a very narrow gap between the wall and the trees, many of which overhung the trail. At one point I was on my hands and knees to get under a branch. Eventually I reached the top and took a well earned rest. The trail led onwards along the edge of the forest through more bog and felled trees and it was a relief to reach the main forest track.

20180821 The long track through Redesdale Forest — The long track through Redesdale Forest

The remainder of the day was a yomp down the forest track to Byrness where I arrived at 3.30. The Forest Inn provided tea and an evening meal. The landlord organises the Spine Race each year. This takes place in January and ultra marathon runners compete in racing the 265 miles of the Pennine Way, which they must complete in less than a week.

Once again I had a room in the bunkhouse on my own.

On Aug 23, 2018Sep 8, 2018 By neilin51Leave a comment

20th August – The Sill to Bellingham

20180820 Hadrian's Wall and Peel Crags — Hadrian’s Wall and Peel Crags

Monday

The morning did not start well when the Fire Alarm went off at 5.00am. After a few minutes, when all the hostellers were in the corridors in various states of undress, it was declared a false alarm.

20180820 Milecastle 39 and Crag Lough — Milecastle 39 and Crag Lough

Returning to bed but not really sleeping I left at 8.10. Today’s walk really broke down into 3 sections, the Wall, the Forest and finally moors and farmland. For once it was not raining, and it was enjoyable just to get by with a T shirt. The Hadrian’s Wall section was dramatic with fine cliffs at Steel Rigg and Hotbank Crags. There were plenty of ups and downs with lots of steps before I left the wall at Rapishaw Gap.

20180820 Broomlea Lough and Hadrian's Wall — Broomlee Lough

Turning north from the wall the path crosses an area of moorland before entering forest. One section of forest leads to moorland at Hawk Side before more forest is encountered and eventually you reach a small road near Ladyhill.

20180820 Boggy path through the forest — Boggy path through the forest

From here the path descends into a deep valley to cross Warks Burn and then rises steeply to the farm at Horneystead. Someone should nominate the owners for a medal. They offer shelter, toilets, refreshments, which included tea or coffee, soft drinks, beer, Waggon Wheels, crisps, sweets etc. All were offered free, donations were appreciated, but not mandatory. I stopped for tea and a late lunch.

20180820 The Mast at Ealingham Rigg — The mast at Ealingham Rigg

Much refreshed, I crossed more farmland before descending to cross Houxty Burn, immediately followed by a climb up past Shitlington Crags, to the tall mast at Ealingham Rigg. From there it was a short walk down rough pasture to Bellingham.

20180820 Coming down to Bellingham — Heading down to Bellingham

This is yet another ex-YHA hostel, now operated by a local farmer. I arrived around 4.20 just as the rain set in. A trip to the local Co-op sorted out supplies, and I am self-catering to avoid having to go out in the rain.

There does not seem to be a fire alarm, so I am hoping for a better night.

On Aug 20, 2018Sep 8, 2018 By neilin51Leave a comment

19th August – Greenhead to The Sill at Once Brewed

20180819 Hadrian's Wall shrouded in mist — Hadrian’s Wall, shrouded in mist

Sunday

The torrential rain during the night gave way to a light drizzle by morning. Knowing that the weather was due to improve I arranged breakfast for 8.30 and it was 9.50 before I left Greenhead.

20180819 Hadrian's Wall near Walltown — The Wall near Walltown

Kitted our in full rain gear I set off for one of the highlights of the trip, Hadrian’s Wall. The trail passes Thirlwall Castle leading on to an old whinstone quarry and rising to the wall. Unfortunately for most of the rest of the day the views, which are extensive, were obscured by thick mist and rain. It is also disappointing that most of the information boards are indecipherable and need replacing.

20180819 Milecastle 42 near Cawfields — Milecastle 42 near Cawfields

With little incentive to dawdle I passed Turret 45A and Milestone 45. Large forts were built at intervals, with mile-castles each mile. A Roman mile is 1481m. The wall follows the crest of Whin Sill and is a bit of a roller coaster with steep ups and downs. Passing Cockmount Hill, Great Chesters, Cawfields, Shield in the Walk, I reached the viewpoint on Winshields Crag in driving rain and mist. I therefore missed seeing Scotland for the first time on the trip.

20180819 View north from Winshields Crag — The view north from Winshields Crag

Shortly after leaving the high point of the wall I reached a minor road at Peel and could descend to the new YHA hostel called the Sill. I arrived at 2.30 and persuaded the warden to open the drying room before booking in time at 3.00.

20180819 The Sill Hostel — The Sill Hostel

As I write this at 5.30 the rain has stopped. Tomorrow I head for Bellingham and a last chance to stock up before two days crossing remote moorland and the Cheviots.

On Aug 19, 2018Sep 8, 2018 By neilin51Leave a comment

18th August – Alston to Greenhead

20180818 It was very windy — It was a very windy day

Saturday

After an interesting conversation with a Dutchman at breakfast and getting his view on Brexit, “We think you are all crazy”, I left at 9.10.

The official Pennine Way wanders up and down the slopes of South Tyne, the only purpose of which seems to be to visit a Roman Fort at Whitely Castle. As this made no impression on me last time I took an easier option and walked the South Tyne Trail through Slaggyford to Burnside, where the two trails meet. This had the additional advantage of a tea stop at a buffet car at Slaggyford station and the chance to see a steam train.

20180818 Sheltering in an old barn — Sheltering in an old barn

Leaving Burnside the trail climbs up onto Hartleyburn Common along an old Roman road, the Maiden Way. By now the wind was getting up and I was glad of a hat and jacket it was also beginning to spit with rain. The trail descends to Glendue Burn before climbing over a watershed and dropping down to the A689 and Hartley Burn. It then climbs to the wilds of Blenkinsopp Common. Thank heaven for a long dry summer as the bogs were bad enough but could have been a nightmare. Eventually passing the trig point at Wain Rigg I dropped down to the busy A69. Taking my life in my hands, I crossed and wandered down to Greenhead via pastures and the golf course arriving 4.00.

20180818 Heather moorland near Greenhead — Heather moorland near Greenhead

The Greenhead Hotel was open and welcoming. The owners now run the bunkhouse, having taken it over when the YHA wanted to close it. Once again I had an 8 bed room to myself. Dinner at the hotel was substantial and they also offered breakfast for tomorrow.

The forecast for Sunday is rain gradually easing and I am glad that I have a short day.