Tag: Union Canal

18th April – Falkirk to Lennoxtown

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The Forth & Clyde canal goes on… and on…

Today has been hard – and it should have been easy.  Physically it should probably have been the easiest terrain of the whole trip: I doubt that I have climbed as much as 50m.  The problem was psychological.  This was the third day walking along the canal.  Nothing really happens.  The scenery is largely farmland, there are very few locks and no canal traffic.  In summary, it is boring, especially if you are on your own.

Anyway, I left at 7.45 and got onto the canal at 8.30.  Six hours and around 16 miles later I reached Kirkintilloch and left the canal behind.  I almost forgot to mention that I switched from the Union Canal to the Forth and Clyde Canal at the Falkirk Wheel, used to lift barges between the two waterways.  As with the Kelpies, this is a must-visit attraction.  Unfortunately nothing was moving on the canal so I did not see it working.

20190418 Falkirk Wheel 1
The Falkirk Wheel

The Forth and Clyde Canal does not seem to get much use.  Nothing was happening at the marina near Kilsyth, despite the fine weather.

20190418 Marina near Kilsyth
Marina near Kilsyth
20190418 Heron
Depressed heron

The section across Dullarur Bog was almost my nemesis.  Admittedly it is interesting from an industrial engineering point of view: the embankment had to be built up 16m and allowed to settle before construction of the canal could take place.  Nevertheless after 6k of nearly arrow-straight walking it had lost its appeal. Even the heron walking down the path with me seemed to be suffering from depression.

At long last I arrived at Kirkintilloch, and said goodbye to the canals until after Fort William.

20190418 The end of the canal path
The end of the canal path

It was almost out of the frying-pan into the fire, as the next 5k was on a straight abandoned railway.

20190418 The Strathblane Railway Walkway
The Strathblane Railway Walkway

I hurried on to Milton of Campsie’s Old Station where I stopped at a very fine bench.  I was minding my own business when I was asked to film and direct an advert for an upcoming event in the village.  I think they might have got the wrong Neil Jordan!

A very fine seat…
Milton of Campsie station

Given all that had happened – or not – during the day, it was with some relief that I arrived at Lennoxtown at 3.45.

I have covered over 60 miles in the last 3 days, around 45 miles of which has been beside the canals.  The tarmac surface is hard on the legs, and I am heartily thankful that after tomorrow I will get back onto more normal terrain.

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17th April – Uphall to Falkirk

20190417 The only barge we saw on the Union Canal
The only barge we saw on the Union Canal

This was to be another long day on the Union Canal.

20190417 Niddry Castle near Winchburgh
Niddry Castle near Winchburgh

I left Uphall at 7.45, as I had around 5k to walk before meeting up with Rachel at 9.00 at Winchburgh.  Luckily we arrived within minutes of each other.

The only memorable parts of this section were the huge slag heaps and the Peel tower at Niddry Castle.

After a lot of catching up, Linlithgow eventually appeared, with the skyline dominated by Linlithgow Palace, the birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots.  In all honesty, we were more interested in tea and cakes which were amply provided by the Strawberry Cafe (highly recommended).

20190417 Linlithgow Palace
Linlithgow Palace

I am sometimes asked why I do not visit more of the tourist highlights that I pass.  I think it is that I have to view the trip as a job.  Each day the objective is to reach the next stopping place, and I do not want to be diverted from that task.

20190417 Rachel at the Avon aqueduct
Rachel at the Avon Aqueduct

Leaving Linlithgow, we trudged on passing the Avon Aqueduct, which is very similar to the Pontcysyllte aqueduct in Wales.

20190417 Toad

The only other excitement was finding a toad on the path.

Nearing Falkirk things looked up.  The Falkirk Tunnel was a joy, with stalactites hanging from the ceiling and large picturesque calcite deposits on the walls.

Inside the Falkirk Tunnel
Stalactites
Calcite deposits

The tunnel is 631m long and was constructed because a wealthy industrialist, John Forbes, objected to the canal being visible from his estate!

20190417 Neil at the Falkirk Tunnel
Neil at the Falkirk Tunnel

We left the canal at the Tunnel to walk into Falkirk for more tea.  We arrived around 3.45.  Once we found my hotel, Rachel caught a bus back to Winchburgh.  It was great to have Rachel’s company for a 20-mile day, and our conversation made the walk pass quickly.

After I had a quick shower and dinner, John arrived to take me to see the Kelpies.

20190417 Neil at the Kelpies
Neil at the Kelpies

These are breathtaking and a must-visit if you are ever in the area.  The photos speak for themselves.

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16th April – West Linton to Uphall

20190416 Covered bridge River Almond
En route: covered bridge over the River Almond

After 3 days off moving from Horton to Middridge and then up to Scotland, I arrived back at the Gordon Arms on April 15th.

I was able to organise an early breakfast and left the hotel at 7.45.  After all of the problems last year which ended the trip, it was good to be moving into new territory.

20190416 Agricola's Roman road
Agricola’s Roman road

There was a steep climb out of the village before the path joined a short section of Agricola’s Roman road.  Turning up the valley towards the col at Cauldstane Slap, I was back on the Drovers Trail.  Gentle climbing led to Baddingsgill Reservoir and the open moor.

20190416 Baddinsgill Reservoir
Baddinsgill Reservoir

I made good time up to and over the col in murky conditions, and was soon leaving the Pentland Hills and dropping into Scotland’s industrial heartland.

20190416 Harperrig Farm and Reservoir
Harperrig Farm and Reservoir from the path off Cauldstane Slap

The route took me past Harperrig Farm and Reservoir, before crossing the Waters of Leith and ascending to the A70.

20190416 Bridge over the Waters of Leith
Bridge over the Waters of Leith

Corston Hill was supposed to offer good views over Edinburgh but there was little visible through the mist.

20190416 Corston Hill
Corston Hill with misty views

After some tricky navigation in the park above Mid Calder, I started to follow the River Almond.  I stopped around 1.50 for a late lunch near an old railway viaduct, lamenting the lack of any seats.  Walker’s law was working well: 500m later there was a delightful picnic area with benches.

20190416 Lin's Mill aqueduct
Lin’s Mill aqueduct

Eventually I joined a feeder channel which would be followed until I reached the Union Canal at the appropriately named Lin’s Mill aqueduct.  At the last bridge, about 500m from the aqueduct, I found a sign saying “Path Closed”.  As no diversion was suggested or obvious, I chose once again to ignore the sign.  This time there was evidence of activity and I spotted two workmen digging out the channel.  Not wanting to admit to being a Sassenach who did not understand plain English, I nipped over a fence, crept past the workmen and rejoined the path.  Clambering round the barriers at Lin’s Mill, I was once again a law-abiding member of society.

20190416 Union Canal passing under M8 motorway
Union Canal passing under M8 motorway

The Union Canal will be my companion for 3 days, and I made good progress along the towpath to Broxburn.  I then faced a 3k walk along the main road before reaching the Orchard Hotel at Uphall at 4.15 after a 30k day.

After a quick shower I joined my friends Mark, Rachel and John for a delicious lasagne at Rachel and Mark’s home.  Rachel is joining me tomorrow when I walk on to Falkirk.

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