15th August – Langdon Beck to Dufton

20180815 Langdon Beck Youth Hostel
Langdon Beck Youth Hostel

Wednesday

My roommates were not early risers. and some were still in bed when I left at 8.15 so packing was done in the dark. Luckily I remembered that I had forgotten my Kindle when I was only 500m from the hostel.

The route goes up the Tees Valley past the cliffs at Falcon Clints.  There are a couple of places where you have to cross large awkward boulders, which proved a pain with a large rucksack.

20180815 Cauldron Snout
Cauldron Snout

Eventually Caldron Snout came into view.  This is the outfall from Cow Green Reservoir and is very scenic.  You have to scramble up the rocks at the side of the falls, and a combination of wet greasy rock, heavy rain and a heavier bag made the trip rather more exciting than I needed.

20180815 Rain and mist near High Cup Nick
Coming out of the rain and mist near High Cup Nick

From Cow Green you head off into the moors on a good track to Rasp Hill.  Turning left I descended to Maize Beck which is followed to High Cup Nick.  This should be the highlight of the day but yet again it was pouring with rain and very misty so there were no views.  Keeping High Cup Nick on my left I eventually found the path and a straightforward descent took me to Dufton for 2.30.  The hostel did not open until 5.00pm but the kind people at the Stag Inn let me get changed.  In exchange I bought beer and passed a mellow afternoon.

Dufton Hostel was very comfortable, and I met an interesting character who claimed to have been everywhere and seen everything.  Amazingly all the people in the dormitory were in bed by 9.30 so it was early to bed.

14th August – Baldersdale to Langdon Beck

20180814 Grassholme reservoir
Grassholme Reservoir

Tuesday

Alan dropped me back in Baldersdale around 9.15.  The route goes down to Blackton Reservoir before climbing up past Hannah’s Meadow, species-rich hay meadows, named after Hannah Hauxwell who lived nearby at Low Birk Hart.   As they had recently been cut there was little to see.  The climb over Hazelgarth Rigg was followed by the descent to Grassholme Reservoir and yet another ascent to Harter Fell before going down into the Tees valley at Middleton-in-Teesdale.

20180814 Middleton-in-Teesdale
Middleton-in-Teesdale

Tea was called for and provided by a very nice tea shop just over the bridge.

20180814 Low Force on the River Tees
Low Force on the River Tees

During the 8 miles walk to Langdon Beck the trail follows the course of the Tees. The highlights are Low and High Force.  Some kayakers had just run Low Force when I got there.

20180814 High Force on the River Tees
High Force on the River Tees

High Force is England’s most powerful waterfall and it must be spectacular when the river is in spate.

Langdon Beck Hostel was very comfortable and provided an excellent evening meal and a good breakfast. The worrying thing was that it was very quiet with few walkers.

I probably should mention that there were showers off and on during the day but overall the weather was reasonable.

13th August – Keld to Baldersdale

20180813 Waterfall near Keld
Waterfall near Keld

Monday

Leaving Keld at 8.55 I was delighted that the sun was shining and the overnight rain had not materialised.  However, within 30 minutes I was putting on my rain jacket and over-trousers, which stayed on for the rest of the day.  I can only say that the weather has certainly changed for the worst, and at times the rain seemed to be falling in biblical proportions.

Two hours after leaving Keld I reached Tan Hill Inn.  Like the Windmill they never close, so I was able to get a mug of tea, and a very kind gentleman gave me a £5 donation for Sobell House.

20180813 Tan Hill Inn 1732 ft
Tan Hill Inn – the highest pub in England (530m) – they have their own Snowcat and snowplough!

Leaving the pub you enter Sleightholme Moor, best described as bleak and boggy.   Unfortunately this goes on for around 8 km.  I am sure it would have enjoyed it more without the driving rain.  Eventually Sleightholme Farm came into view and the path goes through a delightful limestone valley before reaching Trough Head.

20180813 Gods Bridge
God’s Bridge

Turning north the path descends to God’s Bridge, a natural limestone slab bridge, before climbing to cross the A66.  From here to Baldersdale it was a hard slog.  My rucksack was uncomfortable, the path was straight and boring and in danger of being washed away, as was I.  The only interest was listening to the guns blasting away at the grouse on the hillside opposite.  Eventually, just before 4.00 the best thing I had seen all day hove into sight: Alan’s car.

I barely had a stitch of dry clothes on me so did a rapid change at the car. Sometimes the small pleasures are best: just to be in dry clothes and out of the rain.

Returning to Middridge I was able to get some washing done but, as Alan does not have a dryer, I will have to use my Scotland kit until Jedburgh.  The Bay Horse next door provided a fine dinner and it was good to catch up with Alan.